Andermatt, Switzerland: Steep Powder, Swiss Charm, a Mountain That Builds Great Skiers with Leoni Zopp
- John Morgan
- 19 minutes ago
- 4 min read
There are ski resorts that look good in photos. And then there are ski resorts that actually ski well and get the snow. Andermatt is the latter. Oh but its pretty too.
The Stats
180 kilometres of slopes - Advanced - 50%, Intermediate - 35%, Beginner - 15%
33 lifts
1,500 vertical metres (4,920')
altitude 2963 meters (9,720')
Andermatt is in the center of Switzerland, about 100 kilometers south of Zurich and perched above the legendary Gotthard Tunnel, Its an easy drive or train trip from Zurich.
This region is a snow trap making it one of Switzerland's most snow sure resorts.
A quaint Swiss town, Andermatt has quietly evolved from a sleepy alpine village into one of Europe’s most exciting ski destinations. But unlike some mega-resorts, it hasn’t lost its soul. According to Swiss big-mountain skier Leonie Zopp, that soul is exactly what makes Andermatt special.
From Sleepy Town to Global Ski Destination
Leonie, a former Swiss national junior champion turned freeride skier, grew up in Andermatt. At just 24 years old, she has watched the town transform in real time.
“When my parents tell stories about how it was back in the day compared to now,” she says, “it’s a completely new town. From being sleepy with not much going on to a pretty cool destination where people travel from all around the world.”
Andermatt is now part of the Vail Resorts portfolio and included on the Epic Pass, bringing more American and Australian skiers to the region. Yet despite the investment and infrastructure upgrades, the town remains intimate — just 1,500 residents. “You go to the grocery store and it takes forever,” Leonie laughs. “Because you know everyone.” That small-town authenticity is part of the draw.
Gemsstock: Steep, Serious, and Snow-Filled
The heart of Andermatt skiing is the Gemsstock side of the mountain — a high-alpine zone known for steep terrain and consistent snowfall. Some call it “the black diamond,” Leonie says. She wouldn’t go that far — but she admits it’s no joke.
“It’s not huge lift-wise,” she explains. “But the slopes are so steep. And our grooming team is insane. Every day you just have perfect slopes.”
Gemsstock is largely above treeline, creating dramatic alpine skiing but also demanding skill especially when visibility drops. Much of the mountain sits in shade through early winter, preserving cold snow and allowing powder to last.
And when it really dumps? Gemsstock delivers. Because of Andermatt’s geographic position, storms from multiple directions feed the mountain. “We always get a little bit,” Leonie says. “From different directions, it just adds up.” The result is dry Swiss powder that often sticks around longer than you’d expect. 360-Degree Freeride Potential
What makes Gemsstock unique is that only part of it is traditional marked resort terrain. The rest is freeride playground — steep faces, long alpine descents, and routes wrapping around nearly the entire mountain.
“You can ski 360 degrees around it and always end up back in town,” Leonie explains.
But this is Europe. There’s no clear inbounds/out-of-bounds distinction. Off-piste means responsibility.
“For sure take a guide if it’s your first time,” she advises. “We have really good mountain guides here. They will show you the sweet spots.”
Even without chasing big lines, Gemsstock builds strong skiers. Leonie believes challenging snow conditions are part of the mountain’s identity.
“Skiing bad snow makes you a better skier,” she says. “Everyone looks good in powder.”
The Sunny Side: Natschen, Sedrun & Disentis
While Gemsstock attracts advanced skiers, the Natschen side of the valley offers a completely different vibe.
“It’s the sunny side,” Leonie says. “Wide slopes, easier skiing, more restaurants.”
Andermatt’s lift pass includes access to Sedrun and Disentis, significantly expanding terrain options. You can ski from Andermatt toward Sedrun, hop a short train connection, and continue across a broad Swiss alpine landscape. For intermediates, this side of the mountain is ideal — flowy terrain, scenic views, and the chance to ski while soaking in the surroundings.
“When you can ski and still enjoy the view because it’s not too hard,” Leonie says, “that’s the vibe.”
Snow Reliability and Glacier Protection
One of Andermatt’s lesser-known efforts is glacier preservation. Portions of the glacier are covered with protective blankets during summer to maintain snowpack and stabilize the upper mountain.
“It’s a huge mission,” Leonie explains. “They’re heavy. It’s steep. It’s freezing cold. But it’s important.”
This helps Andermatt build early-season base and protect the integrity of high-alpine terrain — another reason the mountain holds snow so well.
Beyond the Skiing
Andermatt remains refreshingly low-key. This is not an Austrian-style après party scene. It’s quieter, more family-oriented. There are bars and restaurants, but skiing is the focus.
Lunch might mean fresh pizza at Natschen Arena or traditional Swiss fare in one of the self-service mountain restaurants. The town itself stays charming and calm.
And when weather shuts down upper lifts? “You just ski,” Leonie shrugs. “Bad visibility makes you a better skier.”
If conditions are truly rough, a short trip south into Switzerland’s Italian-speaking region can mean sunshine and even double-digit temperatures — ideal for climbing or cycling.
A Mountain That Grounds You
After a serious injury ended her racing career, Leonie transitioned into big mountain skiing and began studying psychology. And through it all, Andermatt remained her anchor.
“Nothing calms me down like going up on Gemsstock,” she says. “Spending time with my friends, drawing my own line. That’s my most peaceful state.”
That sentiment captures Andermatt perfectly. It’s not just a ski destination. It’s a mountain that shapes people.
From junior racers training on steep race slopes to freeriders exploring alpine faces, Andermatt builds skill — and perspective.
Skiing Andermatt?
Advanced skiers chasing steeps and powder - take the 2 trams up and ski on Gemsstock - you can try hometown legend Bernard Russi's run (#71 off to the left at the top of the tram) if you want steep - somewhat less steep is 70 off to the right
Intermediates try the Natschen side - take the tram and there is plenty of fun skiing here - you can even work your way over to Sedrun from here
What Andermatt does offer is terrain and Swiss charm.
As Leonie puts it, after traveling the world: “Nothing is like home.”
For skiers who care about snow quality, steeps and real mountain atmosphere, Andermatt, Switzerland may be Europe’s most compelling under-the-radar ski resort.
And it’s only gets better.
FInd out more
Best Run - Russi's (#71)
Best Hotel -Chedi Andermatt
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