St. Anton
- John Morgan
- Jan 2, 2023
- 4 min read
Updated: May 22
In this episode of Where to Ski, host John Morgan sits down with Barney Caddick, senior guide and owner of Ski Like a Pro in St. Anton, to unpack what makes the Arlberg so legendary.
There are ski resorts, and then there is the Arlberg. Tucked into the heart of Tyrol in western Austria, this is the place where modern skiing was born — the home of Hannes Schneider, the man credited with turning the act of sliding down a mountain into a discipline, a culture, and a way of life all over the world. More than a century later, the Arlberg remains one of the most extraordinary ski experiences on the planet, and if you haven't been, this is your sign to book.
Meet Barney Caddick
Barney has been working as a ski guide in St. Anton for the past 27 winters, is a fully certified 'Staatlich Geprüfte Skilehrer und Skiführer' - the Austrian equivalent of master and has 36 seasons teaching in 8 Ski-schools on 4 continents.
The Arlberg: A Region, Not a Resort
Calling the Arlberg a “ski resort” undersells it. This is an interconnected mountain range spanning St. Anton, St. Christoph, Lech, Zürs, Stuben, and more — all accessible on a single lift ticket. Each town has its own character and charm. With 94 lifts, vast vertical, and nearly 200 kilometers of off-piste terrain, the Arlberg is bigger and more complex than any single U.S. resort.
Unlike purpose-built ski areas designed for cruising blues, the Arlberg’s natural terrain is steeper, narrower, and more demanding. Even groomed runs often include challenging pitches. As Barney explains, this is not a place you casually “figure out.” It’s a mountain system that rewards experience — and punishes overconfidence.
Skiing with a Guide Changes Everything
One recurring theme of the conversation is the importance of using ski guides in the Arlberg. Navigating town-to-town routes, finding good snow, avoiding crowds, and staying safe in avalanche terrain all depend on timing, weather, and local knowledge.
A guide knows where the sun hits first, which aspects hold powder longest, and how to link massive day tours — from St. Anton to Zürs, Zug, Lech, or all the way toward the German border. In the Arlberg, skiing without a guide often means missing the best terrain entirely.
Off-Piste Skiing and the Legend of Valluga
The Arlberg is world-famous for its off-piste skiing, and no run carries more mystique than Valluga. The north face of Valluga is serious, exposed terrain requiring a registered, approved guide. It begins with steep, icy sections above massive cliffs — terrain where mistakes can be fatal.
Barney has guided Valluga hundreds of times, carefully matching terrain to a skier’s mental and physical readiness. Once through the initial exposure, the reward is unforgettable: a five-kilometer powder descent into Zürs through pristine alpine terrain. For those seeking a safer alternative, the Valluga west face offers spectacular skiing without the same level of risk.
Chair Two, Rendl, and Endless Sun
Not all of St. Anton’s magic lies in the extreme. Chair Two remains a local favorite, offering hike-to terrain and north-facing lines without the crowds. Rendl, a separate mountain range across the valley, delivers different snow, light, and terrain — often quieter and more forgiving allowing skiers to experience the Arlberg’s depth without venturing into its most exposed lines.
Intermediate Skiing: Its there and its Exceptional
Despite its reputation, St. Anton offers outstanding terrain for strong intermediates — especially those with several weeks of skiing under their belt. Wide alpine bowls, long groomers, and the option to download by lift at day’s end allow skiers to avoid icy valley descents while still enjoying high-alpine terrain.
Add in easy access to Lech, Oberlech, Zürs, Stuben, and St Christphe intermediates can enjoy variety, amazing skiing and sheer joy.
The White Ring: Following the Sun
One of the Arlberg’s most iconic ski tours is the White Ring, a 22km route designed to follow the sun throughout the day. Starting on east-facing slopes in Zürs, transitioning to southern exposures in Lech, and finishing on west-facing terrain back toward Zürs, it offers nearly uninterrupted sunshine and an amazing tour of the mountains — without repeating lifts. It is well marked and you can start anywhere on the loop and end wherever you like.
Avalanche Control, Storm Days, and Tree Skiing
Heavy snowfall is common in the Arlberg, and safety is taken seriously. Avalanche control cannons echo through the valleys, and upper mountain terrain may close during storms. On these days, guided tree skiing offers exceptional powder while maintaining visibility and safety — another reason guides are invaluable.
Food, Culture, and Après Ski
St. Anton also pioneered après ski culture, blending skiing with social life, food, and celebration. Apres starts on the mountain at 3 at the Mooservert and the Krazy Kangaroo and often continues well into the night. While nightlife has evolved, the Arlberg still delivers exceptional on-mountain dining, traditional Tyrolean hospitality, and restaurants that turn afternoons into memorable experiences.
St. Anton Endures as one of the World's best
The Arlberg doesn’t cater to trends. It doesn’t flatten terrain or soften its edges. Instead, it invites skiers to rise to the mountain — to learn and enjoy from its rich skiing to its history.
As Barney puts it, in the Arlberg, the mountain teaches you how to ski.
🎧 Listen to the full St. Anton & Arlberg episode on the Where to Ski podcast at wheretoski.org
Best Hotel
Best Runs
Intermediate:The White Ring; 144 in Zurs
Expert: The Valuga; the run from Madloch to Zug through the trees (170);
Best Food
Hospiz Alm, ST Chrisophe
Best Apres
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